Our Favorite Releases of the Year (So Far…)

Well, we’re a little more than halfway through 2024, so we thought it would be a good time to ask our contributors about their favorite watches of the year to this point. It’s been, to put it mildly, a strange year. Coming off 2023, a watch release year that saw an almost never ending string of hits, 2024 seems a bit more sedate. But the highs, as they say, have been high, and there are specific sectors of the watch world that seem to be thriving with creativity and pushing serious boundaries. 

The selections here from our staff and contributors run the gamut, as always, from large brands to small, affordable to luxury. We’d love to hear from you: let us know what your favorite releases of 2024 are in the comments below. 

Zach Weiss – Sinn U50 HYDRO

I had a bit of a hard time picking a watch for the topic, and to be honest, it’s because I haven’t been overly blown away by anything yet this year. Not that they’ve been bad; there just hasn’t been much that has really tempted me personally. That’s probably a good thing, but, as I pondered releases, one watch eventually stood out: the Sinn U50 Hydro. The Sinn U50 line was already a great success for the brand, bringing their distinctly modern, tool watch language to a manageably-sized dive watch. But, this year when they added their HYDRO technology to the package, it made it a watch that truly could only be a Sinn, and likely appreciated by only devoted Sinn enthusiasts.

For those unaware, Sinn’s HYDRO watches are filled with oil, which grants them several special attributes. The first is that they are essentially uncrushable and thus are rated to 5,000 meters. Yeah, that’s not a typo. The second is that they are reflection-free underwater and won’t fog. The third is that the oil has the unique optical effect of projecting the dial on the crystal, allowing it to be viewed from low angles, and looking very cool while at it.

However, the cost of this tech is that HYDRO watches must be quartz because a mechanical watch simply wouldn’t function immersed in oil. This is where Sinn enthusiasm comes in. These aren’t cheap watches, but the tech is so Sinn, so purposeful, so functional, that it doesn’t need to be mechanical to be cool (and to be fair, it’s HAQ, so that’s cool too). I could definitely see the U50-T Hydro S fully black, tegimented model making its way to my collection eventually. 

Zach Kazan – SpaceOne Tellurium

At the moment, we are overrun with think-pieces, podcast episodes, and memes (always, memes) about a particularly slow watch year. Some in the watch world have a sky-is-falling sensibility about 2024. Sales are down. New releases are boring. I can actually buy a Rolex at retail! Are these signs of doom? A return to pre-pandemic norms? Or are observers yelling from the rooftops about industry decline just plain wrong? It’s a classic “a little from column A, a little from column B” scenario, with a third column thrown in for good measure. From my perspective, though, there’s a small area of the industry that is not only subverting the larger narrative of disaster, it’s thriving in a way it never has before. 

I’ve said it many times and in many ways, in reviews, and podcasts, and by screaming into the void: we are in a golden age of affordable, wildly creative, independent watchmaking. Micro-brands, if that’s what you want to call them, have grown up, along with the enthusiasts who have supported them all along, and they’re producing some of the most innovative, design forward, and mechanically interesting watches in all of horology. And nothing this year has impressed me more than the SpaceOne Tellurium. 

The Tellurium was among the best things I saw during Watches & Wonders week, and it has occupied a corner of my mind ever since. It’s a rare complication, featuring a calendar, as well as an accurate representation of the earth’s orbit around the sun, and the moon’s orbit around the earth. All, of course, in a package that kind of looks like a spaceship, but is more wearable than SpeceOne’s first release which really looked like a spaceship. Why should De Bethune have all the fun, right? 

At under 3,000 EUR, the Tellurium throws down the gauntlet for value in design and engineering at its price point, and is one of a handful of watches that is redefining what’s possible from small, boutique brands. Even if this admittedly hyper niche watch isn’t to your taste, it’s worthy of respect and admiration for what it signals for the industry at large, and the way in which it will surely push other brands forward in the future. 

Nathan Schultz – Cincinnati Watch Co Desk Diver

There are moments in life that call for a serious watch. In these moments, watch enthusiasts turn to their water resistant, temperature regulated, scratch deflecting tool watches that are so hardy and versatile, they could probably solve world peace if we gave them a chance. But on most days, for most people, life isn’t all that strenuous, and the overkill specs on our favorite tool watches serve more as an additional layer of quality control than necessary measures of a practical daily wearer.

In a lighthearted reminder that quality isn’t synonymous with excessive specs, the now sold out Cincinnati Watch Co Desk Diver released earlier this year throws specs out the window. Created from a brand that has made a habit of giving new life to old components, the Desk Diver is housed in a recovered 1970’s Swiss made case and proudly offers absolutely zero water resistance. With a dial that advertises it to be “unofficially certified” this is the sort of dad-joke level watchmaking that keeps me grounded when I get too caught up in the spec-race. Even though the watch doesn’t take itself too seriously, it still dutifully pays homage to dive watches of the past with a period correct acrylic crystal and ample lume on the (new) vintage feeling orange-accented dial and handset.

Meg Tocci – Omega Speedmaster Professional (white lacquer dial)

Whoever advised the masses not to wear white after Labor Day can take it up with Mr. Bond. 

Omega teased a release of their stunning white lacquer dial via the wrist of Daniel Craig in November of last year; however, Speedmaster fans had to wait an additional four months for the official drop which finally came this March. The new Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional (42mm) follows the design cues of its black-dialed brother(s) in almost every way except one – the color. 

This white dial, states Omega, is inspired by astronauts’ suits during their space exploration, and the original ALASKA I prototype. The protector cases on those 1969 models were a dark red, as were the stripes adorning the arms, legs, and helmets of mission Commanders beginning with Apollo 13. The shade particularly pops on the “Speedmaster” lettering at 12 o’clock.

A visit to some of the forums will confirm this release was a bit controversial. However, I think the new white lacquered-dial Speedmaster is a refreshing change of pace this season. It offers something different within the long and storied history of the Speedmaster Professional line while still remaining true to the aesthetic heritage for which this watch is so well known. It references the past while still pushing the boundaries of convention. It remains to be seen if demand for these watches will outpace availability, but this new addition seems to be enough to offer the #speedytuesday gang a dose of novelty to last another half decade or so. 

It was fun to see the social media hype with this release, and I’m curious to keep a finger on the pulse of Omega’s plans for the rest of the year after this stellar mic drop. Though there are a handful of prominent white dial watches in the luxury space at the moment, this new Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional is not pulling any punches. Your move, Rolex.

Garrett Jones – Artefkt One

When I was asked to pick my “favorite new watch” of 2024, my mind started racing at all the possibilities. At least for me, this year has been full of “new” watches as I dove into the industry and learned more about how everything ticks. Of the new releases I’ve read about, seen, and photographed, one has stood out as my personal favorite, the Artefkt One (A1) from Artefkt Seven. Not only is this a new watch, but an entirely new brand hailing from Detroit, Michigan.   While speaking with founder Brandon Little at Windup Chicago, I was able to get hands-on experience with this watch, and learn more about his inspiration. Being a huge fan of dive style watches, the A1 felt like it would be right at home in my collection while also being subtly different. I was immediately drawn to the slim profile, square titanium case and integrated strap, but the fixed bezel really caught my eye. Even from a distance, the shape felt immensely familiar, and Brandon later shared with me that he was inspired by the iconic Leica square lens hood. As a massive photography nerd, this subtle detail absolutely sold me on the watch. Of the several different configurations that Brandon debuted, my personal favorite was one with a Coyote Tan cerakote case, black bezel and crown. I’m excited to see where Brandon and his brand, Artefkt Seven, go from here.

At this point, you should know that the only thing I love more than watches is new gear, especially when that gear is photography related. Whether it’s writing something down in my field notes, manually winding a watch, or sharpening my pocket tools, I’ve found that doing something the “traditional” way helps distract me from the hustle of NYC life. With that said, I’ve been developing an interest in film photography, especially as it continues to experience a resurgence in popularity. One of the most exciting things I’ve seen to occur in the film photography world this year is the Pentax 17, the first film camera released by the brand in years. In my opinion, the most challenging thing about shooting film is that you’re limited to 36 exposures with a standard roll of film, but the Pentax 17 allows you to get almost 72 out of the same roll! Pentax accomplishes this with a vertically oriented half frame meaning it uses a smaller section of film for each shot and exposes it vertically instead of horizontally. Additionally, the Pentax 17 has six marked “focus zones” on the lens, creating a unique but simple experience for users, whether they are a seasoned film enthusiast, or a hobbyist looking for something new.

Christoph McNeill – Grand Seiko SLGW003

To be fair, I’m honestly not up on all the releases so far this year as I pretty much keep to vintage watches, but there is one that came out this year that is a real beauty, and one that I can’t imagine any watch beating out for my favorite. The Grand Seiko SLGW003 ‘White Birch’ is that watch. Anyone that has read anything watch related from me knows I’m a Seiko junkie. That said, not everything they do nowadays is brilliant, but this next generation version of the White Birch absolutely is. 

The case has that classic King/Grand Seiko styling with the “Grammar of Design” mix of high polish and brushed finishes. Sadly Seiko keeps using titanium instead of stainless steel, which I’m not a fan of. I mean, why not use steel, at least as an option? I don’t like the light weight of the titanium. But that slight to my sensibilities aside, this watch still kills it. The brilliant white dial has a beautiful horizontal texture, hence the Birch nickname. This is similar in execution to the “snowflake” GS from several years ago, as well as the various “Birch” pieces that have been released in the Evolution 9 collection recently.

What really sets this watch apart is the no-date (yay!!) manual wind hi-beat movement. The 9SA4 movement is a highly finished beauty, with a double barrel giving it an 80 hour power reserve. I am a sucker for Seiko, and doubly so when you have a hi-beat, manual wind, no-date movement. The price tag of just over $10k is a bit prohibitive for me, but honestly you get what you pay for (and more!) with Grand Seiko. Compared to some Swiss brands, this watch is a straight steal.

Griffin Bartsch – Toledano & Chan B/1 (unique piece for Sotheby’s)

Looking back at the first half of 2024, it’s hard not to be impressed by the overall quality of new releases. Despite a relatively quiet Watches & Wonders, this year has seen a steady stream of compelling and exciting new watches at every price point — from the Momentum UDT Eclipse Synch Solar to Richard Mille’s latest Nadal-themed flying tourbillon. But the watch that caught my attention more than any other was a piece unique watch made specifically to sell at auction. 

When Toledano & Chan released their inaugural watch, the B/1, earlier this year, I was a little skeptical — until I saw one in person. The B/1 is the perfect encapsulation of where enthusiast watchmaking sits in 2024, offering collectors a unique perspective and transforming what should be a niche product into one that sits at the center of watch enthusiasm today.

The watch itself is, as the brand’s founders Phil Toledano and Alfred Chan would tell you, the perfect synthesis between the highly architectural watches of the 1970s, and the evocative brutalist architecture of the same era, specifically recalling the windows of the Breuer Building in Manhattan, the former home of the Whitney museum, and future home of Sotheby’s Auction House. So it was a perfect fit for the brand’s first piece unique to sell at Sotheby’s this past June, where the marvelous copper-infused carbon fiber watch sold for $24,000 — a fitting premium over the standard B/1’s $4k price tag, and a distinct endorsement that Toledano & Chan is one to watch.

Devin Pennypacker – Baume et Mercier Clifton Moonphase

While there may be more obvious answers out there that I am sure my colleagues will call out (the Tudor Black Bay Monochrome and IWC Eternal Calendar leap to mind) few watches made me stop and thoroughly pour over the press release and subsequent photos like the Baume et Mercier Clifton Moonphase 10756 did. As a huge proponent of its predecessor, the standard Baumatic-powered Clifton, it should come as no surprise that the tasteful inclusion of a moon phase complication would further elevate my adoration for the classically styled dress piece. Though perhaps overlooked by a large number of watch enthusiasts, Baume et Mercier has quietly established itself as a gateway into true Swiss luxury while simultaneously acting as an entry point into the Richemont Group, housing famous names such as A. Lange & Söhne, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Vacheron Constantin, just to name a few. All that to say Baume et Mercier has the opportunity to bring a similar vibe of the most aspirational watchmaking names to your wrist in a more value-packed collection.

On its surface, the Clifton Moon Phase Date offers a level of finishing rivaling all in its price segment. The anterior surface of the 39mm steel case features a polished finish which carries over to the elegant indices and alpha-shaped hands. Set just beneath, the gradient blue lacquer dial backdrops the brighter dial accents lending dimensionality and contrasting legibility. Counterbalancing the wordmark branding at 12 is the large date ring at 6 surrounding the star of the show, the moon phase complication which itself features a bit of rounded texture to elevate its look over a more traditional flat disk. Flipping the watch over reveals the well-decorated automatic Baumatic caliber BM14-1975 AC1 operating at a smooth 4 hz while achieving an impressive 120-hour, 5-day, power reserve. To do so while also including a date and moon phase complication is no small feat and I believe deserves more praise than the Baumatic calibers typically receive. For me, the combination of beautiful aesthetics, upgraded movement technology, and incredible wearing dimensions create an overall package that demands attention, especially at its sub-$5,000 price point. While Baume et Mercier may still have an uphill battle in becoming a more household name, rest assured that some of us are paying attention.

Marc Levesque – TAG Heuer Aquaracer 

In the early 1990s, I developed a strong interest in watches, and, like many enthusiasts, I became particularly fond of TAG Heuer, especially their S/EL line. Unfortunately, I couldn’t afford a Sport Elegance watch (now called Link) nor the 4000 or 6000 series of watches at the time. However, I did scrape together enough to buy a TAG Heuer 1500 dive watch on a bracelet. This was a significant step for me, transitioning from affordable mall watches to my first Swiss timepiece. My obsession with watches might have been in its early stages, but it had already taken hold of me. I adored that watch and wore it 24/7 for years. Since then, I’ve had a soft spot in my heart for the brand, specifically their 2000 series, which later became the Aquaracer.

The Aquaracer has undergone many changes over the years. I didn’t like some changes, while others piqued my curiosity, but none was compelling enough to make me want to buy one. That is, until now. The newly improved and recently tweaked Aquaracer ticks so many boxes that I might have to buy one. From the beautiful new wave dials to the re-proportioned case and the thinner, more supple bracelet, the exterior shines as brightly as the interior. This is due in part to an upgrade in the movement. The Caliber 5 has been replaced by the new Cal TH31-00, exclusively manufactured by AMT for TAG Heuer, featuring a class-leading 80 hours of power reserve and chronometer certification. I must admit that I am thrilled to see TAG Heuer excelling once again.

Matthew Catellier – Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1965 SJE099

To date, 2024 has been an awkward year for watch releases. A touch less volume, and a touch less daring than previous years. Despite that, I didn’t need to sift too far to find an easy watch of the year winner for me, which is the new release Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1965 Ref. SJE099. Even though I’m not a huge Seiko guy, it was love at first encounter when I handled this watch back in June, with its near perfect proportions and its design details like the retro knurled bezel, and mini round off-kilter date window. The dial has Grand Seiko-like detailing, and the overall fit and finish is spectacular – the ice blue dial is the way to maximize the cool factor.

Chris Antzoulis – Isotope Chronograph Compax Moonshot

I met José Miranda, Isotope’s co-founder, at Windup NYC in 2023, and he introduced me to a prototype of a 2024 release — the Isotope Chronograph Compax Moonshot. I don’t know that I’ve ever conveyed more childlike exuberance when inspecting a watch. The Moonshot, powered by a regulated Swiss Landeron 73, looks like it was jettisoned right from a comic book. In fact, in one of my first emails to José after our initial meeting, I asked him if he was inspired by comics or sci-fi movies. He told me that the inspiration for this watch came from a graphic novel called The Incal, a dystopian sci-fi masterpiece created by writer Alejandro Jodorowsky and illustrator Moebius. I have since read the graphic novel and can plainly see how Moebius’ artwork inspired Isotope’s Moonshot. His grittiness, intricate line work, and masterful machine-like complexity is replicated in José’s futuristic chronograph. 

The model I saw, dubbed the Terra Maris, is a gunmetal color with somewhat gilt/sandy dial accents and a vibrant space blue on the sub-registers. The case is 40mm in diameter, 49mm lug-to-lug, and is made from a single block of hand-finished grade 5 titanium, creating a comfortable wearing experience that will allow you to focus on the bit of insanity happening on the dial. Instead of traditional hands on the chronograph sub-registers, José has found a way to incorporate rotating three-quarter discs with concentric radial patterning to reveal the running seconds, elapsed minutes, and elapsed hours through one-quarter cut-outs on the discs. It’s wild to actuate the oblong Isotope logo-shaped pushers and have the information shown to you rather than pointed out. Yes, there’s a difference, and it’s marvelous to experience it. The chronograph is also rigged with both a pulsometer and a tachymeter. Presumably this is to time the speed of UFO’s and then get an accurate read on your heart rate once Isotope makes you realize that aliens do, in fact, exist.